Africa part 2

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Zie: http://gerardenpetraopreis.blogspot.com/2017/08/

Friday 20th of October 2017

Riebeek-Kasteel to Gecko Creek

We get up early because we had taken everything out of the car on the advice of the owner. We had secured the 2^nd spare tire and the 3 jerry cans on the roof with a lock and steel wire against occasional theft. By the time everything is packed, it is time for breakfast. That was included. We get yoghurt, fresh fruit and muesli before she wants to serve us fried egg, bacon and sausage with homemade bread. Wait, that might be a bit much. I can use the owner’s computer to arrange a 3rd party insurance for Mozambique via Drivemoz (www.drivemoz.co.za) and it has to be printed. I don’t want to do this in Massingir because we didn’t like the atmosphere in this town last time. Last week there was a documentary on Dutch television that showed a lot of rhino poachers live in Massingir. Hoping to strike cold they go to the adjacent Kruger Park to poach.

We leave at 11 a.m. much too late for the Bains Kloof Pass so we drive thru Prince Alfred’s Hamlet and Die Dorp Op Die Berg to Citrusdal. It’s a fun route. The last part is a nice pass with gravel. I’m peeing behind the car when a car passes and stops. It’s the nice Dutch couple we met on the plane! We had already met them at check-in at Amsterdam Schiphol and chatted for a long time later on the plane. They also love Africa and have already made several trips. They now come from Paternoster on the coast. We chat again and then each drives in opposite direction. Very special to run into a familiar face at the highest point of a mountain pass so far from civilization. In total we only passed 3 other cars. It wasn’t a busy road.

We drive through Citrusdal and need to get cash at the ATM. That turns out not to be a smart move. It’s Friday and there is a long queue at every ATM. We are the only white people and clearly tourists. While I fill my pockets, we pretend that the machine is not paying. Quickly buy some fresh vegetables in the local supermarket so that we can cook a huge pan of macaroni at Gecko Greek. We will freeze portions for on the road.

We easily find Gecko Creek’s gate. We drive into the private nature reserve. They now also offer tents overlooking the valley. The fantastic Lapa has not changed and is perfect for some pre-tour cooking. We again have a wonderful time at the open air Boma when they light the fire. More info: www.geckocreek.com

Saturday 21st of October 2017

Gecko Greek to Namaqua National Park

Last year we also camped at Gecko Greek. Than too it was also our 1st night in the rooftop tent. It was very windy that night and it was terribly cold. We hardly slept. Now our first night is much better. There was no wind and it was not cold. From our rooftop tent we see the sun rise. The rocky mountain in front of us is beautifully illuminated. We drink coffee and enjoy all the luxury. Drinking water, kettle, porch swing, no baboons. I work out next to the pool for half an hour and then jump in. The water is very cold. We reorganize stuff in the car and start driving late, assuming that Namaqua National Park is not that far away. First we have to do some shopping again and stop in Clanwilliam. We get more 5 litre water bottles. We pass the lake where someone was wakeboarding last year. The boat is now docked on the shore. 

During trip preparation I found Namaqua National Park very unclear. I thought I could book a camping spot at the main entrance. But we can’t find the main entrance and according to tracks for Africa we have to get off the highway. Asking around here is no option because there is nobody. We drive for miles on gravel in the direction of Hondeklipbaai. I think the campsites are there. We arrive at an entrance of Namaqua and have to open the gate ourselves. Nobody. We enter the park and immediately see deer. We drive for another hour and suddenly we come across very deep sand. The tires have to be emptied or we’ll get stuck. It’s storming here. We are heading towards the coast but now direction Spoegrivier Mouth. No camping site there, it’s a wonderful archaeological site. Beautiful rocks with caves where you are not allowed to camp. But it is 6.30 p.m. The sun will set in a minute and we don’t really have much choice. So we get out of the wind as much as possible and put up our rooftop tent. We don’t make a fire because we don’t want to damage the place. We heat up the pre-cooked macaroni with the gas bottle. The ants and wasps are very intrusive so we sit and eat in the car. We go to bed very early. The bed is completely covered in sand. Cleaning is not an option. We’ll get into the sleeping bags. We didn’t see anybody outside, only a whole group of deer.

Sunday 22nd of October 2017

Namaqua National Park to Augrabies Falls National Park

At night the wind changes direction and the tent is hit full force. Flapping on all sides and we cannot really sleep because of the noise. When it gets light we get up immediately. Coffee and then dig a hole. The sun rises and illuminates the rocks and caves. It is truly a magical place. The bees also reappear in swarms. There is condensation on the car and the bees suck it up. Before we start driving we pack the car differently. The bag with equipment must be in the back seat. Just kidding, we don’t have a back seat anymore. The cameras and binoculars can now also be placed in the cabin as other more valuable stuff. We do not have to do much shopping anymore where the car will be left unattended. Usually 1 person stays with the car anyway. And from now on we also sleep on the car. I fill 1 black crate from the trunk with food. So we have extra space again in the carton boxes so that I can put 5 litre bottles of water in. The 3 carton boxes are full with 5 litre water, sparkling water and beer. On top some (daily) food(items) and clothing.

We drive back the same deep sandy path. We see the ocean and the inlet of the Spoegrivier. The track we drew yesterday is now covered in paw prints, but apart from a few (predatory) birds, we don’t see any animals, not even at the water whole. We drive out of the park by opening and closing the gate ourselves. We drive on the same gravel road for a while, but then turn off. We drive over several passes (guess who is behind the wheel). One can see 3 days ahead. When we stop to fly the drone I see very small purple flowers. In August and September it must be one large sea of ​​flowers here. Now you only see succulents, shrubs and different colours of stone and red soil. No animals except for the occasional white sheep with black heads.

With the N7 in sight we first have to pump more air into the tires. A 4×4 stops next to us and asks if everything is okay. They come from Hondeklip Bay, where they camped next to the ocean. They say there were more people, so maybe the camping spots were there. I still do not know. We do drive past the official sign Namaqua National Park. Probably the manned entrance is there.

Off to Springbok, the local capital. It is a busy town and all 3 large supermarkets are open. Lunch is a fresh spinach & feta pie. We fill up the long range tank with 118 litres of diesel. The first 1000km is already driven. It’s still 350km through a dry landscape. The Augrabies Falls Park is located 30km from the highway. We first have to report to the gate, fill in papers and then drive to the reception. We have a reservation and because we also have a wildcard, we no longer have to pay entrance fees. The Wild Card grants us one year’s unlimited access and is a good investment if you plan on visiting several South African National Parks.

We explore the campsite and stop at the first spot that looks appealing. Within 2 minutes 2 Dutch people park right next to us, at less than 2 meters. Why? The campsite is mostly empty! So we move on finding ourselves another site. Some massive baboons walk on the grass, but they are quite relaxed and very afraid of the park ranger.

We claim a new spot with a table and 2 chairs and then look at the waterfall. It’s 4.30 pm, sun is shining full force and it is hot! We get attacked by annoying flies that get into your nose and your ears. But still we visit all the different viewpoints and platforms. So, that was todays workout. Back to the campsite to set up the tent and sweep it clean with a mini dust brush and dust pan. Beat out the bedding and hope that all the sand is gone. Next I transfer the clothes from the garbage bags into the large bags that I brought from the Netherlands. We no longer need the (shopping)bags for groceries. Everything is gradually getting a place in the car, a safe place where it remains even during extreme shaking. I’m ready just in time to watch sunset at the falls. The colours are beautiful and there are whole groups of small marmots. Tonight we are going to cook on the braai at our camping spot. 2 beautiful sirloin steaks with a huge bowl of raw vegetables. Our spot also has water, a power point and a lamp. Such a luxury. It is windless and warm. The starry sky is beautiful.