Amelia Discovery

Brothers, Daedalus, Elphinstone – Egypt

5th – 12th May 2018

Saturday 5^th of May 2018

Vinkeveen, Holland. Some call it the Lakes of Amsterdam. Alarm clock sounds 4.50. Sunrise is beautiful. Weather forecast for the whole week is fantastic. Of course! Normally we would not go in May but as this is a national holiday week I only had to turn in 3 days for the whole trip.

6.00 Bas drives us to Schiphol. This early we’re way ahead of holiday crowds. Trouble with the TUI luggage self-service but security check is fast and so is passport control.

We’re on our way to Egypt to do a liveaboard trip to Brothers/Daedalus/Elphinstone. We’ll board the Amelia Discovery, a 32m long vessel with 10 double cabins to accommodate 20 people. The Amelia is part of Discovery Divers Liveaboards (www.discovery-divers.com). We had never heard of them but reviews were good and they quickly responded to all my questions.

We haven’t been to Egypt since 2003. Why go now? Well short story of our lives.We started diving in Egypt in 2000. We did a liveaboard trip (our first ever!) to the Deep South and St. John’s Reef with the al Farouk 1. What a great experience that was. We loved it. But I never forgot the horrible bus ride in the dark from Hurghada down to Marsa Alam and I will never do this again!

In 2001 we went on the al Farouk 2 also Deep South and St. John’s Reef.In 2002 we did a Brothers/Daedalus/Elphinstone trip on the brand new Excellence in and out Hurghada.

In 2004 we were supposed to go dive Rocky and Zabargad. We got our plane tickets on Thursday and Friday I broke my leg wakeboarding. So the next Friday I was in a cast and not on the plane. We skipped diving 2004 but made up for it in 2005 with a 2 week Maldives trip doing the south and the north tour. After that life just got hectic and we never made it back to Egypt. Now we kind of just got back from our second Maldives trip in February 2018 (see trip report Sharktastic on the Emperor Atoll and Deep South on the Sheena). We were a bit disappointed to see most of the corals were gone. People advised us to go to Egypt if we wanted to see beautiful corals. 

So here we are, on a fully loaded holiday flight. Kids screaming at the top of their lungs. No entertainment system. And all one is served is a candy at the end of the flight. Well hurray for Albert Hein Supermarket at Schiphol. If you’re not Dutch and do your shopping there, ask for ‘bonus’ (= discount).

I love Marsa Alam airport. It is very small. Buy your visa at the window (euro/dollar both accepted) and walk through customs. Next it’s only 5 steps to the luggage claim. If you want, this is also the place to buy your phonecard, but many liveaboard offer Wi-Fi service these days. Outside our pickup awaits. It’s only a short 5 minutes ride to Port Ghalib. A lot has changed since we last were here in 2000. Now we see a big hospital. Back then the hospital could not even give our cook some aspirins for his headache.

In the harbour many liveaboard safari boats await. We board the Amelia Discovery. We’re happily pleased to get assigned one of the 4 upper cabins. All room have A/C and en-suite bathroom. We unpack the bags and set up the dive gear on the dive deck. Only few fellow passengers are present at dinner. The other guests need to come down from Hurghada. We take a stroll and walk along all the safari boats. I recognize many names from the reviews I read on internet. We have a look at the many little shops. Have a drink. Pretty relaxed place here.

Sunday 6^th of May 2018

Port Ghalib, Egypt

Today’s highlight: Dugong

We rise at 5 and are the only ones doing so. Looks like it rained last night. After coffee we start walking (again) past all the liveaboards boats, restaurants, gas station and end on hotel grounds were they kindly ask us to leave. Back to the boat. We have to wait long before the port agent permits us to leave. It’s past 10 o’clock and 45 minutes sailing to the first dive site.

Dive 1: Check dive at Marsa Trombi

Time: 12.33

Viz: 15m

Water temp: 27/25C

Depth: 16,9 meters

Dive time: 65 minutes

First dive we make at Marsa Trombi  aka Ras Torombi. We go in 2 groups. Our dive guides are Mohamed and Zizo. Vizability is reasonable. I somehow expected the water to be more clear. We see nice stuff. The hard and soft corals are fantastic. We see 2 juvenile blue razorfish. One disappears in the sand in a split second. A blue spotted stingray, a stonefish, moray eel, a crocodile fish (carpet flathead fish) and a munching turtle. Zero current.

After 60 minutes we’re out of the water. All gear taken off they shout DUGONG. I can see it from the boat, grab my snorkel gear and swim for dear life through the waves but make it in time to have a good look at the dugong until the Emperor Echo arrives. The zodiac engines scare the dugong away.

After lunch we go to the top deck. Dolphins swim by, 10 in total. I’m happy already and this is only day 1!

Dive 2: Marsa Trombi

Time: 16.49

Viz: 15m

Water temp: 27/25C

Depth: 18 meters

Dive time: 54 minutes

Next dive is at 16.00. We’re the second group. Sky is clouded and light is fading. We all dive nitrox and practice negative entry from the zodiacs. Rehearsal all skills is very important before we go diving at the Brothers. Conditions at the Brothers can be quite rough. So the second ‘check dive’ turns out to be a good thing; one diver can’t find his computer (dangling on his tank), another one forgot his fins and the third didn’t ty the strap of his BCD tight enough so the tank comes loose. The dive is ok. Bit colourless. We ourselves weren’t well prepared either. Our lights are not charged yet. We see another turtle, bigger this time. Nemo’s, a nudibranch, egg from the Spanish dancer. It’s getting chilly and we look forward to a warm shower.

After dinner, a magnificent buffet with lots of veggies, we start heading for the Brothers. It’s a 6 hour trip. Bedtime at 21.30. We leave the door open and enjoy the sea breeze. 

Monday 7th of May 2018 TOPPER

Big Brother, Egypt

Today’s highlights:

Oceanic whitetips aka Longimanus

Grey reef shark

Big dolphins

Humphead Wrasses aka Napoleon

Tunas

Alarm clock sounds at 4.50. There is one crew member up and about. Next to us the Emperor Echo on which we spot a guest jumping around taking pictures. Soon we see why. It’s not the big school of fish behind the boat, but the oceanic whitetip swimming past with lots of pilot fishes.

We’re parked at the southern point of Big Brother together with the Emperor Echo, the Golden Dolphin and the Okeanos Xplorer. Water is choppy. The sky overcast. The pier looks more rusty than in 2003. Garbage floods in the water. Plastic bottles and a wooden pallet. In the distance 2 huge containerships sail by.

Dive 3: Big Brother Southern Point/Pinnacle

Time: 6.32

Viz: 15-20m

Water temp: 28/25C

Depth: 33 meters

Dive time: 54 minutes

Briefing at 6 o’clock. We dive the southern point and jump from the boat. No current. School of fusiliers, some tunas, 2 walls full of soft corals. We swim towards the pinnacle and see a grey reef shark cruising. We decide to take a look at the backside of the island but quickly end our attempt because off the current. Lots of cornetfish, trumpetfish, a Nemo family. We keep looking in the blue but nothing shows. Did I mention the corals here are superb! We slowly make it back to the boat where everybody heads for the ladder. With lots of no deco time and 100 bar we get the dive guides permission to stay behind. We look at some fusilier fish and see some big barracuda. When all divers have left the water, out of nowhere Longimanus shows, accompanied by lots of pilot fish. It swims up to 50 cm before it turns. What a beautiful sight. Our first oceanic whitetip.

Time for breakfast. We start moving. A big wave hits the back of the boat and almost washes away the shoes. For those not familiar with Egyptian boats, shoes are a no go. You take them off when you board, you get them back when you leave. 6 big dolphins swim along and give a show.

Dive 4: Big Brother Backside to Northern Point/Numidia Shipwreck

Time: 10.32

Viz: 20m

Water temp: 27/23C

Depth: 33 meters

Dive time: 45 minutes

Next dive will be made on the back site. The plan is to drift to the northern point, but as there is zero current we have to swim. The wall again is beautifully covered in soft corals. The water is very clear. At the corner we see the Numidia all covered in corals. A big Humphead wrasse shows. I want to make a film but find myself way up. The rest of the group is so much deeper and kicking back towards the wall like crazy. Later I hear they hit a down current. Now I notice the dancing bubbles. Oh, washing machine! But with plenty of air and two zodiacs right on top of us, no worries. It turns out to be a short dive again, so we linger a bit at the corals near the boat. A bunch of sea goldies and several orange spine unicorn fish.

Lunch is divine. Salads, veggies and some kind of cream horn. Sodas are for free all day, Coca Cola, Fanta, Sprite. After every dive juices are served.

We park next to the dock. From up close it looks better. Stairs are new, so they did invest. We can’t go on land because there’s a military training going on. What that means puzzles me. There’s a big white tent and a soldier in full combat clothes and fully armed walking around. We had hoped to take a picture at the southern point to put it next to our old 2003 picture. But we manage to get a funny shot from the boat that will do just fine. Dolphins swim by again.

Dive 5: Big Brother Dock to Southern tip

Time: 14.15

Viz: 20m

Water temp: 27/24C

Depth: 30 meters

Dive time: 60 minutes

The 3rd dive is again from the boat. Very relaxed. We head to the southern point with zero current. Longimanus circles. Fusiliers fishes, tunas, some medium seize Humphead wrasses.

After the dive a warm shower is very welcome. We’ve moved to Little Brother. Lots of wind and waves. Tying up the boat is heavy work and even the captain gets into the water. Everywhere in Egypt are designated mooring point so safari boats don’t damage the dive sites. A very good thing.

Tuesday 8th of May 2018 TOPPER

Little Brother, Egypt

Today’s highlight:

Longimanus aka Oceanic Whitetip shark

Napoleons aka Humphead Wrasses

Turtle

Whitetip shark

Beautiful corals

Tuna

The boat’s been rocking all night long. Surprised we didn’t roll out of our beds. The crew is still busy tying up the boat after some neighbours left and new ones arrive. It’s busy behind the small Island.

Dive 6: Little Brother Southern tip

Time: 6.21

Viz: 20m

Water temp: 27/23C

Depth: 35,5 meters

Dive time: 45 minutes

We jump from the back of the boat because the zodiacs are no option (big waves). We make it to the backside of Little Brother. Suddenly current so we back up. Large gorgonians, Humphead wrasse, barracuda,  Longimanus with a hook and a line in its mouth. With all divers in the water it becomes crowded. The water looks like a giant jacuzzi. Time for breakfast. After diving breakfast always tastes superb. Fresh fruits, yoghurt (pre ordered), freshly baked bread, eggs, feta, cucumber, tomatoes and pancakes for dessert.

Next to the sun deck. Time to write. The sky is blue and there is less wind. All of a sudden big panic on the neighbouring boat. Way in the distance a SMB floats on the surface. Must be 500m out into the open sea. 2 zodiacs speed over and bring back a sole diver!!! Note: current at the Brothers can be ripping and unpredictable.

In the distance more huge container vessels. Longimanus circles around the boat. There could be two actually.

Dive 7: Little Brother back side/Northern tip to Southern tip

Time: 10.36

Viz: 20m

Water temp: 27/23C

Depth: 37,5 meters

Dive time: 55 minutes

Time for the second dive. The zodiac drops us at the northern tip of Little Brother. Here is supposed to be a cleaning station. Before we make our negative entry we see a little turtle at the surface. Underwater a huge school of bannerfish, my favourites. It’s like being in a cloud of butterflies. Everywhere beautiful little coral trees and fish. Very beautiful. We go down to 35m and feel the current. We round the corner, reef left shoulder. A small whitetip speeds off but a curious female Humphead wrasse hangs around. Too much current to stay at the cleaning station so we move on. Above a barracuda, 10 tunas passing and another female Humphead wrasse. Along the wall we swim all the way back to the boat, in the end just the two of us. We spot Longimanus but it disappears in a cloud of bubbles as a new group of divers jumps in the water to start their dive. After 55 minutes with 70 bar back in the boat. Seems like our fellow divers run out of air much faster than we do.

Lunch is fantastic, specially the dessert buffet of fresh fruits and sweet baklava. Up  to the top deck. Wind dropped completely and even in the shade it’s very warm. Longimanus swims past again and one of the guests has this ludicrous idea to jump in the water with his go-pro. The crew is not amused. Swimming at the Brothers is strictly forbidden so they pull him right out. And as it turns out, the moron had forgotten to turn on the go pro before he jumped. Now take note this was May 2018, before there were several attacks by Oceanic Whitetips at the Brothers (see Trip Report Golden Dolphin III the Great Island Tour 19th of December 2018 – 3rd of January 2019).

Dive 8: Little Brother Northern tip to Southern tip 

Time: 14.52

Viz: 20m

Water temp: 27/23C

Depth: 36 meters

Dive time: 56 minutes

Next briefing 14.30. We talk to the guides about the options. Either jump from the boat and wait for Longimanus or zodiac ride to the northern tip and check the cleaning station again. We opt for the latter. Dancing to house music we get geared up and off we go. After the negative entry we drop down fast. Lots of current but we’re close to the split and see the two little mountains/cleaning station. But nothing shows, only the female Humphead wrasse. Mr Humphead wrasse is soon to join us as we swim back to the boat along the beautiful coral wall. The corals are astonishing. We swim underneath the boat ropes and see crew members jump into the water to undo the lines. It’s fun to see this spectacle from underwater. They have a good system going here that protects the reef. We spot a piece of rope and a steel cable that our guide picks up and brings back to the boat. An expensive set that should not be in a coral bed. Longimanus swims by for a photo shoot. The sunlight is amazing.

When all are back on board, the zodiacs are lifted and off we go to Daedalus. It’ll be an 11 hour ride. We’re treated to pizza, chips and banana smoothie, our afternoon snack. 0,5L Egyptian Stella Lager is only 3 euro. One has to write down his/her alcohol consumption and is billed at the end of the week. Bringing your favourite alcoholic drinks on board is also an option. Soda’s like Cola, Cola light, Fanta and Sprite are for free. After each dive the divers are served a glass of juice. There also is coffee and tea all day. 4 different kinds of tea are available but 3 of those are not to my likings. I’d rather have my Rooibos and make sure to bring my own on every dive trip.

Every day at 16.00 a snack is served. Every evening soup is offered before the buffet opens. Not bad for only 850 euro p.p. I’m also very pleased with the upstairs cabin and daily fresh bed sheets for my partner. He displays a bad bedbug allergy since our Maldives trip (see Trip Report Sharktastic on the Emperor Atoll and Deep South on the Sheena) so now I request a frequent change of bed sheets on every (liveaboard)trip. We have a big and a small towel each, that are unfortunately so new, they’re not useful for drying oneself. We’re also given a large beach towel but I use that to sleep under because the duvet is very heavy.

The sun is slowly dropping behind an edge of clouds. Time for a long sleeve shirt. Behind us another liveaboard. Guess they’ll all make their way to Daedalus, the Golden Dolphin, the Okeanos Xplorer and the Emperor Echo. I’m still very happy with this boat, the Amelia from Discovery Divers Liveaboards. The 2 spacious sun decks have a very good lay out. The dining room has windows looking out. Food is delicious and plentiful. The crew is very nice and helpful. The dive guides very knowledgeable and friendly. The guests an nice International mix of Swedish, Belgians, Germans and us for team Holland.

Wednesday 9^th May 2018 TOPPER

Daedalus reef, Egypt

Today’s highlights:

Hammerhead Sharks

Silky shark

Treasure shark

Tunas

Nemo city

Humphead Wrasses

Barracudas

The alarm clock sounds at 4.20. The boat is still moving. Turns out we’re only using 1 engine because the other broke down. But we see the Daedalus lighthouse in the distance. At 5 o’clock the other guests are woken. Briefing at 5.30. We’re on a tight schedule of 4 dives and after that we’ll start moving to Elphinstone. We were supposed to stay at Daedalus for 2 days but too much wind is forecasted.

Dive 9: Daedalus North

Time: 6.01

Viz: 20m

Depth: 33 meters

Dive time: 48 minutes

We’re the first group in the zodiac. No movement on the other 5 liveaboards just yet. That’s good. We head to the northern point, do a negative entry and go down to 33 meters. On the wall we spot the remains of a sunken freight vessel. The long poles it was transporting completely overgrown by beautiful coral. Very little fish around. We swim away from the wall as far into the blue as possible. We keep looking around and back. The first hammerhead gently cruises by. Soon we see number 2 and 3 swimming at 7 meters toward the open sea. What a wonderful treat! It was an intense dive with lots of swimming parallel to the reef but definitely worth it. Time for breakfast.

A big silky shark circles the boat. It’s fin breaking the water surface regularly. Maybe it’s attracted by the smell of the banana pie that’s cooling of on the railing. It might fall.

Dive 10: Daedalus East

Time: 9.45

Viz: 20m

Depth: 33 meters

Dive time: 65 minutes

Next briefing at 9.30. We jump from the boat next to the silky shark that is still circling. We swim to the wall and admire the soft corals and different anemonefish. While filming the Nemo’s we’re almost hit by an enormous Napoleon and close by are 2 more. We make our dive along the wall while another group swims out into the blue. They’ll catch a glimpse of 3 hammerheads. We photograph the silky that’s back again under our boat. On board it’s all fun and laughs when the crew is teasing Gerard. They tie up his wetsuit, put weights in his booty’s and more amusing stuff. We’re just out of our dive gear when the bel rings for lunch. It’s 11. As we’re going to dive soon and diving here can be pretty intense it’s only wise not to eat too much. But the zucchini in cream is delicious as is the banana pie and the chocolate ball stuffed with vanilla pudding.

Quickly make some back-ups of the hammerhead, silky and Humphead wrasse footage and time to get ready for dive 3.

Dive 11: Daedalus North

Time: 13.05

Viz: 20m

Depth: 33 meters

Dive time: 51 minutes

Off to the split it is again. We swim into the blue. The guide points out a hammerhead underneath us. I spot some very big tunas and go after them with my camera. When I arrive at a corner I spot a very long tail, a treasure shark. WOW, the new object of my attention. As I swim closer I spot a hammerhead in the corner of my eye. Both sharks are swimming in different directions. Now I have to choose, which one to follow, decisions, decisions, decisions. And there’re the tunas again too, swimming right in front of me like they too want to be in the picture. Well the treasure shark is swimming away and the hammer is swimming towards me. Choice made. Time to go back to our group. We spot some barracuda, 2 more hammerheads, 1 above us and 1 down below. A very intense but fantastic dive. Back to the boat. No time for relaxing. We’re off to visit the lighthouse. Bring cash as T-shirts are sold for 20 euro’s. We climb up to shabby thing. The view is fantastic but our attention is drawn to an eagle that was hunting a little bird and that is now in the water. First we think the big bird is drowning its prey but then we realize the big bird can’t get out of the water anymore. The guys are just gawking so one of the ladies goes in and saves the eagle. We put it in the shade to dry and rest. Group photo and back to the boat. Here another smoothie and a vanilla/choco and a lemon cake awaits.

Dive 12: Daedalus West

Time: 16.17

Viz: 20m

Depth: 23,3 meters

Dive time: 63 minutes

For dive number 4 we need to borrow a dive computer as Gerard’s  computer (battery) is dead. He suggests skipping the dive but that’s no option. Remember: never skip a dive! We go to anemone city. And it is impressive! I could look at it for hours, but eventually leave when the second group arrives. We swim along the wall. Beautiful corals, a scribbled leather jacket, some pufferfishes, arguing titan trigger fish and a hammerhead. Some tunas, barracudas, fusilier fishes and the first crown-of-thorns starfish I see this trip. Another hammerhead in the blue. No schools of fish here. Back on the boat the bell rings for dinner. The salon is decorated and a festive buffet is served complete with enormous turkey. Another group photo. Food is delicious.

Time for some overdue administration. Every dive we have to fill out forms for nitrox % and stats just like at the Emperor Atoll on the Maldives. Only here you do it yourself, but for half the price, I guess that’s ok.

Thursday 10th of May 2018 TOP

Elphinstone Reef, Egypt

Today’s highlights:

Turtle

Humphead Wrasses/Napoleons

Oceanic Whitetip shark/Longimanus

Alarm clock 4.20. Slowly it becomes light. The boat is moored next to a small reef. We see the shore and the sand dunes again. Sun rises and at 5 o’clock we head for Elphinstone. There it’s total chaos with 6 boats anchored and more coming. The Okeanos Xplorer is there, the Golden Dolphin 2 and 3, the Nouran and even the old el Farouk 2 (2002, our second liveaboard trip). In between all these boats, dolphins swim.

Dive 13: Elphinstone Reef East

Time: 6.36

Viz: 20m

Depth: 25,4 meters

Dive time: 61 minutes

Briefing just after 6. We jump from the boat and swim a whole hour along the wall. The water feels colder here. A bit of current. We’re told that a tiger shark was spotted here last week. But besides some fusilier fish and some small schools of fish (3 times 20 max) we spot nothing in the blue. We pass a munching turtle. It’s having a ball, tearing of vast chunks of coral. It’s fun to watch. A bit further 2 nice Red Sea groupers and a small free swimming moray eel. Large gorgonians and lots of soft corals, but less in size and abundancy as Brothers or Daedalus. And it’s crowded both underwater and above. Zodiacs speed from left to right.  More liveaboard boats have arrived and thus more zodiacs. Day-trippers appeared too.

Time for breakfast. Wind’s picking up. Haze. For a brief moment we have Wi-Fi signal. Next dive at 10.

Dive 14: Elphinstone Reef North

Time: 10.30

Viz: 20m

Depth: 37,4 meters

Dive time: 54 minutes

The zodiacs brings us to the split. The dive guide is very picky where he wants to be dropped. After a current check we make a negative entry. It turns out there is not much current. We go deep and into the blue. But besides a large barracuda and a big Napoleon nothing shows. We go back to the reef where we spot a large crack in the bottom. Some fish. Above us Longimanus. Along the wall we swim back to our boat and pass the munching turtle again. We have a look at some cleaning action. When we start to swim into the blue to be picked up by our zodiac, a couple of hundred fishes pass by underneath us. We put up a SMB and hear the zodiacs go crazy. When we surface we spot about 20! I shout Amelia to the first approaching zodiac. The message is passed along and in now time our zodiac arrives to pick us up. The noise and the exhaust fumes are overwhelming.

Lunch with fresh fruit and coconut pie for dessert. Fatigue is kicking in. Briefing should be at 14.00 but the crew is working hard repositioning the boat. Wind picked up and waves are heavy.

Dive 15: Elphinstone Reef West

Time: 14.37

Viz: 20m

Depth: 31,3 meters

Dive time: 59 minutes

Off we go in the zodiac for the 3rd dive. It’s going to be a nice and quiet dive along the wall ending at the plateau. The most special are the water scooters that pass us. Nothing in the blue. Some small stuff on the reef, a blue spotted stingray, a Nemo, and on my shoulder a cornetfish swims along. It’s pretty persistent.

When we surface, the sea is wild. We’re all put in one crowded zodiac. Turns out the last divers saw Longimanus circling the zodiac. Wave gliding we make our way back to the Amelia. But because of the big waves we can’t park next to the boat and need to swim to it. So one by one we jump from the zodiac. When everybody is on board the crew gets all the gear from the zodiacs and off we go. Storm is coming. Staying overnight at Elphinstone is never an option. All boats are leaving. We make our way along the shore. Sun is vague an just gives enough warmth for a shirt. The 16.00 snack is served. Chips, pizza, fruits and coconut cake.

We head to a quiet bay. Already 6 boats are anchored and our captain wants to pull alongside. That does not go according to plan. Wind is intervening. We almost collide, fortunately everybody has big fenders. Only damage is an anchor line from another boat being cut by our propeller. The guides need to get into the water to get the rope out of the prop. Without engine the 2 zodiacs need to control the boat and with the gusting wind that’s no easy job. Sun is down but everybody is still working hard to park the boat. So it’s no surprise when the cancelling of the night dive is announced. Too much wind, very bad visibility, irresponsible. Lights charged for nothing. But with the wind it’s cold already. BBQ time.

Friday 11^th of May 2018

Marsa el Shouna, Egypt

Awake, no alarm clock needed. It’s light. The generators of the neighbouring vessels are still humming loud and clear. A large oil spill floats on the water. Sun is hazy but no wind and flat see.

Dive 16: Marsa el Shuna (1 hour south of Port Ghalib)

Time: 6.54

Viz: 20m

Depth: 19,8 meters

Dive time: 63 minutes

We take the zodiac to the corner where visibility should be better. We dive without guide and miss the pinnacle. But it’s a fun and relaxed dive with lots of hard corals, small coral fishes, 2 large moray eels, blue and yellow boxfish.

After breakfast we get the briefing about the transfers and the envelopes for the tips. Advice 40 euro p.p. for crew. Guides have their own envelope. We sail along the shoreline and anchor in front of the house of the owner of Port Ghalib, next to a day trip boat.

Dive 17: El Korafy (20 minutes north of Port Ghalib)

Time: 11.24

Viz: 15m

Depth: 25,6 meters

Dive time: 60 minutes

At 11.00 we make our last dive. We spot a beautiful red anemone with 2 Nemo’s. We search and find more Nemo’s but also dart gobies and a blue spotted stingray and several juvenile black-and-white snappers. Viz is less good here. Along the shoreline a massive construction of hard coral and on top a masked pufferfish. While filming we spot a giant pufferfish behind it.

After 1 hour we’re back on the boat rinsing our gear. Lunch with fries and spaghetti Bolognese and fresh fruit. We enter Port Ghalib and put our stuff to dry. We pay reef and port fee 155 euro p.p. and 15 euro for the computer.

Tomorrow we’ll leave the boat first. We have a day room until we leave for the airport. Courtesy off Dutch Travel Agency Diving World (www.divingworld.nl) to compensate the full days wait on Malé Airport (see Trip Report Sharktastic on the Emperor Atoll and Deep South on the Sheena). It sounded like a good idea but turned out to be not really necessary because waiting on the Amelia would have been an (good) option.

After we’ve packed our stuff we go for a walk and a drink at the Sultan. Gerard wants beer but the hassle about the payment puts me off. And then music volume is cranked up so we rush back to the boat. We see sunset and have another buffet dinner. Not as abundant but still fantastic. No party for us. In bed by 22.00 and we close the door because of the noise.

Saturday 12^th of May 2018

Port Ghalib, Egypt                                                       

We rise and shine first again and enjoy coffee on the top deck in a hazy sun. We do our airport check in. Yesterday a big pickup brought all the new food for next week’s trip. Amazing what all was hauled  on board. Lots of fresh vegetables, crates filled with tomatoes, watermelons, honey melons, cauliflower, broccoli, carrots, apricots. I sure will miss the (dessert) buffets. We almost feel sorry to have to miss the 11 o’clock snack that the dive guides arranged for the other passengers that’ll leave at 12 o’clock by bus to Hurghada. Another proof of excellent service.

After breakfast we’re taken to hotel Marina Lodge. Check in is all but friendly. They’re overbooked and do not have a room available. If we would like to take a seat and wait. Well, NO. We end up with two wristbands and 2 towel tickets. Our bags are parked outside a room. Room is closed and needs to be cleaned first. We can come back and get the key at 10.30. With our important hand luggage we make our way to the pool. We settle in the shade. Gerard goes for coffee. I go for a dip in the pool. Water turns out to be pretty cool. The resort looks pretty shabby. People here are not really our kind. No, after 1 hour we’ve figured out we wouldn’t last here a whole week. At 10.30 no key. Gerard checks again at 11.00 and is able to put the bags in the room. It’s big and shabby. We’re happy we don’t have to sleep there.

Also at 11.00 the bar opens. The beer is warmer than the water in the infinity pool my partner says. The other alcoholics are mostly ‘sold out’. The massage types are irritating persistent. At 12.15 we go to our room to shower. Next it’s time for lunch. It looks better than it tastes. Lots of salads but not for me. I hope to pass on the Kiss of the Pharaoh. Desserts are a sad sight.

We’re back at the reception at 12.50 for our transfer. It’s chaos and we only find our guide at 13.15. Turns out we have a private transfer, a whole bus, just for the 2 of us. Before we go through the check we buy some water. It turns out to be much cheaper before customs than after, but it is a 50-50% change the bottles make it thru. Some bottles do, some we need to drink. The Egyptian security check does not really make me feel save. Note, there is a pizza place after customs and a little coffee shop that sell (expensive) coffé latte but have vanilla sirup to add.

The flight back to Schiphol runs on time and is filled to the roof.