EGYPT 2 WEEKS NORTH & GREAT ISLANDS TOUR
Egypt Christmas Trip 2 weeks North & Great Islands Tour
TRIP REPORT
Golden Dolphin III
2 weeks North & Great Islands Tour
19th of December 2018 – 3rd of January 2019
Wednesday 19th of December 2018
Our next trip will start with an early morning flight on Thursday from Dusseldorf. That’s why today we drive from Breda to Ratingen in Germany.
We have a booking on liveaboard Golden Dolphin 3, diving the Wrecks of the North, Ras Mohamed and the Great Islands (Brother Islands, Daedalus Reef, Rocky Island, Zabargad and Elphinstone). We’re not sure if we’ll be able to dive Big Brother and Little Brother because they have been closed to divers from December 7 due to recent shark attacks. Oceanic whitetip sharks aka Longimanus struck 3 times in November 2018. By creating more tranquility it is hoped to restore the natural behavior of the sharks.
The Golden Dolphin 3 was built in 2008. It’s a 40m long vessel with 10 double cabins all with AC and private bathroom. 6 rooms are situated on the main deck and 4 cabins on the upper deck. So all rooms have sea view. We’re booked in one of the king-size bed cabins on the upper deck. It was the last one available and perfect for us.
The Golden Dolphin (www.golden-dolphin.net) is most popular with a German speaking crowd. After our last trip (see Trip Report 22-29 November 2018 Daedalus, Rocky & Zabargad) we’re prepared to hear (and talk) a lot of German for the next 2 weeks. But the boat is comfortable, guides good, crew very friendly, food sufficient and healthy and most important the diving is superb! Only downside i.m.h.o. is that the dining area has no windows.
After several traffic jams we finally check in at the Best Western in Ratingen and walk to the City Center. There is a lovely authentic Weihnachtsmarkt. Lights and music everywhere. What fun! We end up having dinner in a matching authentic restaurant Bürgerhaus Frankenheim right on the market square. This place too is delightful decorated and offers Apfelstrudel mit Vanillesauce for dessert. I’m having a ball. And on top of it all I found my favorite apricot cheesecake at the bakery. That’ll be lunch on the plane tomorrow. 
Thursday 20th of December 2018
Alarm clock sounds 3.45. Off to the parking (pre-booked) and on to the (free) sky train. Dusseldorf Airport is pretty stretched out. We do the check-in but have to
drop of our dive luggage (pre-booked 30kg for 40 euro) at another desk.
Not even 6 o’clock and Gerard is already enjoying his cappuccino. Water here is quite expensive at 5,75 euro a liter. As a true Dutch I brought an empty 1.5L bottle and just fill it with water for free. Not many shops here. But for 200 euro less per ticket compared to Schiphol/Amsterdam, who cares. And we’re booked on plane ‘the Grinch’. The flight is a breeze and my apricot cheesecake lunch is fantastic.
When we land at Hurghada the lines at the desk to buy a visa are super long. 2 planeloads of people are waiting. We just pass them and walk up to the Golden Dolphin representative. He gives us a stamp and of we go through customs. It takes 5 minutes to get into Egypt. At the luggage carousel we have to wait really long. But since the luggage scan is not used, we walk right out to meet dive guide Talaat. He’s happy to see us again. It’s been what, 3 weeks? (see Trip Report 22-29 November 2018 Daedalus, Rocky & Zabargad) We have to wait for more guests. In the shade and the wind it is very cold!!!
When our fellow passengers have arrived a bus takes us to the boat. Even this short bus ride is nerve wrecking. We have booked an upper cabin this time with double bed. It’s a nice spacious room that I soon fill up with all our stuff while Gerard takes care of the dive gear.
We spent some time outside but the wind is icy cold. All the other German guests seem to know each other. Many of them made this same trip last year over Christmas and New Year. They brought winter coats and some also brought outside sleeping bags. After dinner we go to bed early 20.30. We brought our own pillows this time (and socks).
Friday 21st of December 2018
Highlights of the day: 
DOLPHINS
Humphead wrasse/Napoleon
An electric ray
4.30 and I’m awake. Bad exhaust fumes fill the room. Opening the window doesn’t make things better. I head outside with the complementary bath robe over my long pants and sweater and top it off with an ice cap. It’s pitch black. Sun rises at 6.30.
We start sailing at 6.45 along the coast of Hurghada to the North and anchor at 8.00 at Dolphin Reef. First breakfast followed by the safety and dive briefing.
Dive 1: Check Dive on air at Dolphin House/Shaab El Erg 
Time: 9.41
Viz: 15m
Water temp: 24C
Depth: 17 meters
Dive time: 82 minutes
We swim along a sandy bottom were somebody made a huge heart out of shelfs. It looks pretty cute. We see a massive Humphead wrasse with a double lump on its head. Lots of Nemo’s, scribbled leatherjacket, unicorn fish but no dolphins. After 30 minutes we turn, it’s getting chilly. More Nemo’s and YES, at the surface there are dolphins. And they are coming down! A mother and her young pass us closely, back and forth. Soon all the other dolphins come closer. What a check dive this is!!! The other divers are nowhere to be seen. Maybe we should be going back to our group or just hook up with the other group. Back under the boat, everybody needs to use his/her SMB. What a chaos. People get entangled in their own line or that of their neighbor. Time for a hot shower and lunch. It’s 1,5 hours to the next dive site. The dolphin footage is amazing.
Dive 2: Abu Nuhas /Chrisoula K.
Time: 15.24
Viz: 15m
Water temp: 24C
Depth: 25,6 meters
Dive time: 55 minutes
Next dive is at a wreck. Whatever. Can’t beat the prior one. It’s a long zodiac ride out. The wreck is nicely covered in corals. It’s been down there a couple of decades. It’s cargo, Italian floor tiles, still inside. We were told a part of the vessel recently collapsed. We refuse to go inside. Others do. We glance inside and almost bump with a leaving giant puffer fish. We swim around the wreck. Look at the garden eels in the sand. We find an electric ray and several Nemo’s. Fishes are eating jelly fish. At the surface lots more jelly fish surrounded by lots of munching fish.
In the zodiac it’s chilly. I’m not going for the night dive which surprises dive guide Talaat until he sees todays dolphin footage on the big screen. The standard is set high for this trip. Talaat tells us that after our last trip together (see Trip Report 22-29 November 2018 Daedalus, Rocky & Zabargad) he spotted and filmed another whale shark in a bay. Wow, 2 different whale sharks at 2 different locations within a month.
Saturday 22nd of December 2018
Highlights of the day:
3 dolphins next to the zodiac
3 sea needles
Thistlegorm
Big school of batfish
Dragon scorpionfish (biggest ever)
Big crocodilecarpet flathead fish
After a great night’s sleep we’re woken by the alarm clock. We’re the first guests up and about. Some crew members are working already. Wind is chilly. Sunrise at 6.30. We’ll dive another wreck. We’re no fans of wrecks so this trip was quite ok for us. We’ll do all islands and also the most known wrecks of the Red Sea. If your goal is to dive the top 100 dives sites of the world, you’ll end up diving some wrecks. But we’ll never book a trip were the main aim is ‘wrecks’.
Dive 3: Abu Nuhas/Carnatic 
Time: 7.12
Viz: 15m
Depth: 24,6 meters
Dive time: 51 minutes
This vessel went down 1869. Nobody wants to dive with guide so Essam is all ours. On the zodiac ride out we have a dolphin fin next to the zodiac. When we roll in the wall turns out to be full of corals. Also the wreck is very nice overgrown and provides fantastic photo opportunities. Never the less we’re more focused on the fish life which is plentiful. On the outside of the wreck a pretty flatworm and 2 nudibranchs. On the bow a big Humphead wrasse. Inside a huge batfish and several wine bottles leftovers. In 40 minutes we swim around the wreck finding lots of Nemo’s, angel fish, emperor fish, big trigger fish and wonderful spotted groupers.
Time for a hot shower and breakfast. The sun comes out from behind the clouds and the temperature starts rising to pleasantly warm.
Dive 4: Giannes D. 
Time: 11.19
Viz: 20m
Depth: 22 meters
Dive time: 53 minutes
The second dive of the day is another wreck. It sank in the 80’s. GPS was already available so insurance fraud is suspected . Gerard passes on this dive so I hang out a bit with dive guide Essam. But the engine room doesn’t interest me and neither do the captains quarters. A tour around the wreck reveals 3 lovely sea needles. During the zodiac ride back we see 3 residential dolphins.
After lunch we start sailing to the Thistlegorm. Haze in front of the sun and the temp drops dramatically. Sea is almost pancake flat.
Dive 5: Thistlegorm 
Time: 15.36
Viz: 7m
Depth: 24,4 meters
Dive time: 48 minutes
At the Thistlegorm we’re the only boat. We moor right on top so for the 3rd dive we only have to jump. Hardly any current but it’s colder here and visibility is less. We’re 4 in total. Essam goes first and disappears in a black whole that once was a window. Did I ever mention I’m a bit claustrophobic? Caves, holes and dark wrecks, not really my cup of tea. I’m about to turn away when his head pops out again and he calls me over. Okay, but I hold his arm for the rest of the dive. We swim past trucks and motorcycles, we see the kitchen and the bathroom. Did it, done it, check! I’m happy to go outside and spot a huge crocodile fish and an equally big dragon scorpion fish. Must be 75cm. We run into an impressive school of large batfish and a school of fusilier fish. The chimney fumes bubbles. After 40 minutes we’re done. It’s cold and viz is bad. We ascend along the rope and shower until we run out of warm
water. We miss sundown but can enjoy the red sky and the big moon.
Night dive is supposed to be on the Thistlegorm, 1st deck only. But due to intense current the dive is cancelled. We had no intention of going anyway. After dinner it’s time to decorate my baby Christmas tree. I have lots of fun to the dismay of some guests. The crew on the other hand think it’s hilarious. We’re in bed by 21.00, Christmas tree with glowing lights on the bedside table.
The Christmas tree was a gift of my colleagues when we went on our Africa Tour 4.0
Sunday 23rd of December 2018
Woken by the alarm clock. Time for coffee and we bring the tree along. Its lights are pleasant in the dark.
Dive 6: Thistlegorm 
Time: 7.07
Viz: 15m
Water temp: 22C
Depth: 30,8 meters
Dive time: 36 minutes
One more dive at the Thistlegorm, but now current is ripping. We join dive guide Talaat and this time we’re 5. The others don’t want to dive with a guide. Some dove here 25 times already. We descend along the rope to find the crocodile fish and the bat fish waiting. Viz is good and it’s not cold. We swim away from the wreck to the locomotive and see a blue spotted stingray and an enormous nudibranch. Underneath the rubble a moderately sized scorpionfish. We have a look at the ammunition, go to the stern, look at the prop and back. After a sizable anemone with Nemo’s were done. 30 minutes, 100 bar and 7 minutes to deco I hang on the rope first. Looking down at the wreck and the fishes is amazing. After the crew haul me aboard it’s time for breakfast. Off we go. The view of the dessert mountains, the sea and reef is fantastic.
Dive 7: Shag Rock / Kingston Wreck
Time: 10.34
Viz: 15m
Depth: 27,6 meters
Dive time: 67 minutes
Next dive is from the boat. It was supposed to be a combi of wreck and reef but we never find the wreck. We’re 4 and Essam. Nobody else wants to dive with guide (again). We land in the middle of a school of fusilier fish. A school of tunas passes overhead, a rare sight. We take a long swim, a Saturday morning workout, and see lots of fish: Nemo’s, nudibranchs, yellow box fish, anthias, sergeant major fish, orange spine unicorn fish, doctorfish, unicorn fish, rabbit fish and fantastic corals.
After lunch we sail with the wind and temp is nice and warm on the top or sky deck, but in the shadow one deck down it’s chilly.
Dive 8: Dunraven Wreck at Beacon Rock Reef 
Time: 14.26
Viz: 15m
Water temp: 23C
Depth: 29,4 meters
Dive time: 68 minutes
We anchor at a little reef and plan to swim across the reef to the Dunraven. This time Essam is our private guide. So we check out a little wreck at 30 meter. It’s not been there for long. 5 lionfish at the backside, a moray eel, an emperor angelfish and several more angelfish. We move along and after a striped nudibranch I see the biggest giant moray eel I’ve ever seen. More corals, nudibranchs, moray eels, angelfish. Essam clearly miscalculated the distance because it takes us an hour to get to the Dunraven. The ship is upside down and covered in corals. We check out the less deep parts and we let the zodiac pick us up.
Sun sets behind clouds and the Emperor liveaboard that’s moored next to us. Wind is strong enough to blow the Christmas tree from the table. At 18.00 some go for a night dive. At 19.00 they return enthusiastically. A Spanish dancer was seen. Time for dinner. Because there is still lots of wind and no shelter I go to my room early accompanied by my little Christmas tree of course.
Monday 24th of December 2018
Highlights of the day: 
Ras Mohammed National Park
Shark Reef
Jolanda Reef
Anemone city
Turtle
Wreck with toilets, bath tubes and sinks
Blue spotted stingrays
Due to the tight schedule the alarm clock is set for 4.45. Still lots of wind so the Christmas tree stays in.
Dive 9: Ras Mohammed, Shark & Jolanda Reef 
Time: 6.51
Depth: 37,2 meters
Dive time: 52 minutes
At 5.45 we sail towards Ras Mohammed. Here we’ll dive Shark Reef and Jolanda Reef. We jump penguin style from the big boat and we descend along the wall of Shark Reef. We were supposed to stay here 5 minutes to look into the blue but after 1 minute my alarm sounds and I find myself at 35m. Nothing shows so we swim along a beautiful coral wall until we need to cross a channel. Next we see nice brown coral trees and a big turtle. We see a wreck surrounded by toilets, bath tubes and sinks. Some toilets are lovely overgrown by coral. A school of blue spotted stingrays. Next we circle Jolanda reef at 5 meter. Lots of orange fairy basslets. We swim back to the big boat.
Dive 10: Ras Mohammed, Shark Reef, Bay, Anemone City 
Time: 10.20
Depth: 30,82 meters
Dive time: 59 minutes
Next briefing at 10 sharp. We sail back towards Ras Mohammed where in the meanwhile lots of busses and boats have arrived. Another penguin entry. We follow Essam for anemone city. We were supposed to be a group of 7 but most are ‘verschwunden’. We see some at the 60m deep bottom. We check out anemone city, some gorgeous gorgonians and head into the bay were viz is less but colors are fantastic at 7m. Nudibranchs and the 2nd titan trigger of this trip. We have a newbie at this trip and he lost his camera, but the dive guide noticed straight away. He plays a trick on the guy and has him look for his camera for a while before he clips back the camera on the guys BCS unnoticed. The guy is in shock.
It has gotten very busy with day trippers so as soon as everybody is back on board we’re off to Small Giftun. Along the way we’re accompanied by spinner dolphins. On the top deck it’s nice, one deck down in the shade thick sweaters and ice caps are required. Lunch is served while sailing. 12 different kinds of pizza. The boat is rocking a bit.
Dive 11: Small Giftun Police Station 
Time: 15.23
Viz: 12m
Depth: 34,1 meters
Dive time: 55 minutes
At 15.00 we arrive at Small Giftun where there’s nothing except a police station. We get the guide again and he shows us the gorgonians. They are big and beautiful but it is quite dark. The rest of the dive is kicking into the current. Little light in the water so colors are faded. A swimming moray eel, a dragon scorpionfish, a box fish, 2 more scorpionfish. The wall to the water surface is nicely covered in corals
As soon as everybody is back on the boat we leave full throttle. 12 hours to Elphinstone. No night dive.
Tuesday 25th of December 2018 (1st Christmas Day)
Highlights of the day: 
Elphinstone
Shaab Shuna
Longimanus
Eagle ray
A bad night, waves made the boat rock and roll. Very few had a good night sleep. 4.30 we reach Elphinstone. We’re the first soon to be followed by the enormous Blue and the Emperor Asmaa. We see the sun rise.
Dive 12: Elphinstone, the Arch
Time: 7.13
Depth: 56 meters
Dive time: 51 minutes
This time Gerard comes along (see Trip Report 22-29 November 2018 Daedalus, Rocky & Zabargad). We dive air and check out the arch. Little current. We stay deep long time and I end up with quite some deco. So the long wait begins. No fish in the blue. 3 more boats arrived and so did Longimanus.
Dive 13: Elphinstone, North Plateau 
Time: 11.06
Viz: 15m
Depth: 34,7 meters
Dive time: 59 minutes
Back to Nitrox. Adjust the dive computer. This dive we hope to see some hammerhead. The zodiac takes us to the northern point, due to the big waves a long and slow ride. We roll and swim to 34m. We wait and wait. Nothing except some barracudas. Back to the reef. A female Humphead wrasse and a turtle. We swim along the wall until the zodiac picks us up.
No other boats have arrived. The Blue is leaving already. We leave after lunch. Even with 4 layers of clothing it is too cold to sit on the top deck in the wind. So we go down one deck to what is called the upper deck.
Dive 14: Shaab Shouna
Time: 15.35
Viz: 12-15m
Depth: 27,9 meters
Dive time: 51 minutes
Soon we arrive at Shaab Shouna. Gerard passes so I dive with Essam. Water is chilly, viz lousy and there is little light. But we do spot Nemo’s, an eagle ray, a porcupine fish and mackerel.
Next stop gas station Port Ghalib. Lots of people stop to watch us dock for gas. There is a nice Christmas tree and lots of Christmas lights. But we don’t get to walk around. While we have dinner the food supply is hauled aboard and we’re off again, rocking and rolling. In bed by 20.00.
Wednesday 26th of December 2018 (2nd Christmas Day)
Highlights of the day: 
Daedalus
WHALESHARK
Treasure Shark
School of Barracudas
School of Mackerel
Silky Shark
It’s 4.00 when we arrive at Daedalus. We rise at 4.45. We’re the only boat. Coffee under the Christmas tree.
Dive 15: Daedalus North Corner
Time: 6.52
Viz: 12-15m
Depth: 35,1 meters
Dive time: 60 minutes
After the briefing Talaat asks who wants to be in the 1st zodiac. No volunteers but us. We go to the corner. Weather is good: hazy sun, little wind, calm sea. Little current so there is a chance to sea hammerheads they tell us. We saw them here in May 2018 (see Trip Report Amelia 5-12 May 2018 Brothers, Daedalus, Elphinstone). We’re not dropped all the way out on the corner but right on top of a treasure shark. Check. We’re quite deep but the others go even deeper, but they dive air. Looking at their bubbles reveals a swirling current. Both dive computers start to yell when we are suddenly pushed upwards about 10m.We see the dive guides frustration grow. The other divers just do their own thing no matter what he tells them during the briefing. And he tries so hard to give a briefing in German. We swim back, reef right shoulder. In the blue some barracudas. On the bottom another barracuda that’s being cleaned and a few waiting in line to be cleaned. The wall is beautifully covered in corals. Some huge coral formations at 10m.
Breakfast. In the sun on the top deck it’s really nice. We’re 3. The rest either went back to bed or is one deck down in the shade with thick sweaters and icecaps on.
Dive 16: Daedalus North Corner
Time: 11.19
Depth: 35,9 meters
Dive time: 60 minutes
Second dive. We have to wait for the second zodiac ride. The first tour will be a deep dive on air. But the hammerheads are neither swimming at 50m. When we start our dive the water resembles a jacuzzi. Swirling bubbles everywhere. If there was something living around it has fled now. I’m still stunned that we see so little fish. Visibility isn’t all that great, but nonetheless. Would there be overfishing here too?
We’re still enjoying our warm shower when the bell for lunch sounds. We shuffle some food in and go to the top deck to enjoy the sun. We’re 4 now. Notes for my log: the corals here are amazing and the treasure shark was a real treat.
Many of the German guest have been sniffling and sneezing. Gerard is also coming up with a cold. He’ll skip the 3rd dive. Of course we joke about our last trip only 3 weeks ago (see Trip Report 22-29 November 2018 Daedalus, Rocky & Zabargad). It was here at Daedalus that he didn’t feel well and skipped a dive. While seeing me off (I was supposed to go to Nemo City and ready in the zodiac), he spotted a whale shark under the boat.
Dive 17: Daedalus West, dive plan (again) Nemo City
Time: 15.01
Depth: 34,2 meters
Dive time: 57 minutes
The other divers aren’t in a hurry. They rather jump from the boat in an hour. So I rush to change and get my ass in the 1st zodiac together with Talaat. Current is wrong so change of plans, no Nemo City but we’re dropped halfway. A few drop down deep while I stay at 35m and cruise along the wall. Strong current, I try to level up higher and I can’t believe my eyes when a big shape appears. The first thing that comes to mind is: this is not happening!!! WHALE SHARK coming straight towards us. The thing is huge and fast! I wonder if it’s the same? We try to keep up but that’s not possible. Talaat and I have a little celebration under water, this is the second time we’re here and see a whale shark together. How lucky can you get!!! For those divers who missed the bus sized whale shark, it comes round again but disappears when 1 diver gets to close. We hang a bit above the sandy plateau and see a treasure shark cruising. We make our way back towards the boat and finally see a big school of fish. Mackerels and a school of Barracudas. We linger but no more whale shark. Back on board Gerard already heard about the whale shark. My camera goes into lock down but we have Talaat’s go pro film which is superb. On the little house there’s a bird of prey. Wonder if it’s the one we once saved from the water (see Trip Report Amelia 5-12 May 2018 Brothers, Daedalus, Elphinstone). Could be, how many birds of prey are there out so far at sea. But then again a big white butterfly passes and a 10cm long dragonfly too.
Talaat is mad with joy. He has seen 3 different whale sharks within a month. Me, I’m half in shock. 2 different whale sharks within a month of which 1 on Christmas day. What a Christmas gift.
The Silky Shark patrols under the boat. That’s the same for sure. After dinner the crew bring out rugs, pillows, Arabian music and the shisha pipes. A lovely site but the smoke is overwhelming. And so many smoke. Only 4 don’t. I flee to our cabin. Tonight we stay at Daedalus where we’ll make 3 more dives tomorrow. The Brothers Islands are still closed.
Thursday 27th of December 2018
Highlights of the day:
Manta
Treasure Shark
Fit after a good night’s sleep. Would my camera work. Nope. Time for the backup camera. Wait for the briefing.
Dive 18: Daedalus North Corner
Time: 6.52
Depth: 35,4 meters
Dive time: 61 minutes
Talaat takes the 1st zodiac and I’m at his site. Everybody is eager to dive now! We go to the split on thnorthern side. Viz is mediocre. Only some barracuda’s in the blue and some on the reef waiting for a cleaning job. At the end of the dive we run into a treasure shark at 25m. We manage to get pretty close and the shark keeps circling right in front of us. Fantastic. A cold stream flows through the water. We swim back to the boat, no silky and no Longimanus in site. Time for breakfast.
Dive 19: Daedalus North Corner
Time: 11.10
Depth: 37 meters
Dive time: 58 minutes
The zodiac take us out to the northern point. We were supposed to hang on the split but there is too much current. We check the long poles, beautiful overgrown by corals. This was once the cargo of the wreck. No hammerhead shark is sight, but then again viz is a bit of. I focus on the picturesque coral wall and a Nemo. Heavy waves when we climb into the zodiacs. The wind picked up.
After lunch we go up to the sun deck. On the dock the bird of prey is feeding on something.
Dive 20: Daedalus Nemo City
Time: 15.03
Depth: 31,2 meters
Dive time: 64 minutes
For the 3rd dive we have 2 options. A) under the boat or B) Nemo City by zodiac. I opt for Nemo City, of course. This time we actually make it to Nemo City. The sun light hits it perfectly. We swim back to the boat along the wall. Corals, a moray eel, scribbled leatherjacket, oops 2 titan triggerfish but they’re too busy chasing each other. Back under the boat again schools of mackerel and barracudas. Talaat sees something and spears of. Elke and I follow in his slip stream. A Manta. Elke’s dream come true.
As soon as we’re back on board we’re off again. Dinner while we rock and roll. An early night, 19.30.
Friday 28th of December 2018
Highlights of the day: 
Rocky Island and Zabargad
Treasure shark
Small swimming electric ray
Heavy night because of the wave action. Not much sleep. We keep rolling even after we’ve moored. But my camera with the whale shark footage finally works!
Dive 21: Rocky Island
Time: 6.57
Water temp: 25C
Depth: 36,2 meters
Dive time: 58 minutes
We’re not able to go all the way out to the cleaning station at the corner because of the conditions. We’re dropped and swim back reef right shoulder. Some go deep because 3 years ago 5 tiger sharks were seen at 50m. But here too poaching is a huge problem. It’s stunning how little fish and sharks we see here. The biggest fish is a grouper that joins us for the whole dive. We come across de debris of the sunken liveaboard boat, Planet 2. This boat recently (less than 2 months) went down during a storm at night. Everybody survived. Stuff is laying everywhere, lots of plastics too. Talaat collects a duvet cover and some other fabrics that cover the corals, Elke helps. It’s a shame this place isn’t cleaned up. This is a Marine Park!
One big male and 2 female Humphead wrasses and 3 jacks are playing with our bubbles.
Time for breakfast and some sun bathing on the top deck.
Dive 22: Rocky Island
Time: 11.01
Water temp: 25C
Depth: 38,3 meters
Dive time: 55 minutes
This dive we take the zodiac while the others jump from the boat to take another look at the new wreck (see Trip Report 22-29 November 2018 Daedalus, Rocky & Zabargad). We swim along the wall but the coral growth here is not so abundant as Daedalus. I wouldn’t have mind staying there the rest of the week. Few fish here but then a group of small tunas show. They need another 10 years to grow, if they last that long. Than Talaat signals and I drop down to the plateau where a treasure shark is circling. At 5 m the corals are at its most beautiful in the sunlight.
After lunch we enjoy the magnificent view from the top deck. But every little cloud moving in front of the sun drops the temp to chilly cold. We move to Zabargad where the water is more calm. The view here also is magical. The sharp, dark mountain, the reef and the different shades of blue.
Dive 23: Zabargad
Time: 14.58
Water temp: 26C
Depth: 33,7 meters
Dive time: 60 minutes
I opt to go with guide while Gerard stays on board. We check the edge of the plateau at 35m. Nothing, only fusilier fish. We swim over the narrow plateau and see beautiful table corrals. Water temp is 26 degrees. Essam spots a small swimming electric ray.
We have a beautiful sunset.
Dive **: Night dive at Zabargad
At 18.00 it’s time for the night dive briefing. This time I join. It’s an ok dive, nothing spectacular. I even forget to log it.
Saturday 29th of December 2018
Highlights of the day:
Shaab Maksur south plateau
Shaab Maksur north plateau (manta)
Shaab Claudia (whitetip)
The crossing was bouncy. We sometimes even got lifted off the bed. Wow. But once anchored there still is plenty time to sleep.
Dive 24: Shaab Maksur, South Plateau
Time: 7.05
Water temp: 24C
Depth: 29 meters
Dive time: 49 minutes
Gerard still can’t dive so Essam will be my buddy. Half the boat is not diving. They all have a cold.
After we’re dropped by the zodiac we have to swim quite a stretch reef right shoulder until we reach the southern plateau. Max dept 20 m to have enough time to explore the plateau. The wall isn’t all that special, but the plateau is. A true oasis of little coral trees, a Nemo, a ray, Humphead wrasse, a tuna, a swimming moray eel, one that gets cleaned and one in a hole. We swim around the two pillars that are beautifully overgrown and I have never seen so many small orange sea goldies together. A wall of staghorn coral from 7m up to the surface. It looks like an aquarium. A very relaxed dive.
Breakfast.
Dive 25: Shaab Maksur, North Plateau
Time: 11.01
Depth: 34,1 meters
Dive time: 57 minutes
We decide to stay and make the next dive at the northern point. We roll into a bunch of fusilier fish. All of a sudden they flee when a hunting tuna shows. After the tuna a playful manta appears and hangs around most of the dive.
Dive 26: Shaab Claudia
Time: 14.49
Depth: 15,9 meters
Dive time: 51 minutes
After lunch we go to Shaab Claudia. It has become a bit warmer and the strong wind seems to decrease slightly from a 5 to a 3.We jump from the boat. Gerard is able to go down. We swim over huge coral formations. Visibility is not good. A little ray, some lazy butterfly fish at the bottom, a school of goatfish and around the corner a small whitetip. Next anemone city. At the entrance of the corridors we say bye bye to the rest of the group and make our way back to the boat. Under the boat lots of doctor fish and bat fish.
Sun goes down behind the mountains. At 18.00 some go for a night dive. We watch manta, dolphin, whale shark and treasure shark footage on the big screen on the lounge deck. Time flies and the night divers are back. 19.15 The bell sounds to announce dinner. After dinner the shisha’s are lit and the smoke is so thick it irritates my lungs. I flee to our cabin. I’m the only one on board who’s not coughing and sneezing and I’d like to keep it that way.
Saturday 30th of December 2018
Highlights of the day:
Shaab Sharm and Shaab Marsa Alam
Mr. and Mrs. Napoleon
Turtle
Awake at 3.00, we’ve stopped moving. Rise at 4.45. Turns out we’re anchored somewhere and we need to sail 5 km to arrive at Shaab Sharm. This is the last change for hammerhead action. Sea is calm, little wind, weak sun.
Dive 27: Shaab Sharm
Time: 7.00
Water temp: 24C
Viz: 10-12m
Depth: 36,6 meters
Dive time: 51 minutes
The wall they drop us on is not overgrown. Viz is lousy. Down and in the blue is little to see. A large Humphead wrasse swims away (they usually swim towards you). Down a little whitetip circles. We arrive at the plateau but after Shaab Maksur this is poor. 3 gorgonians and 6 divers looking for longnose hawk fish. A female Humphead wrasse, 2 stingrays and a porcupine fish. Cold, cold, cold, no sun. We go up along the wall to the right. Nothing in the blue. The wall is not special, looks like there has been an avalanche. We spot 2 types of parrot fish, a school of brown fish and a lot of orange spine unicorn fishes. I’m going to the boat with Talaat. You only see it halfway up the rope, the visibility is that bad. But before we exit we do see a little turtle swimming towards the surface to breath. Back on the boat Gerard and Essam ask whether we saw the pot of spinner dolphins, about 15. They past us by real close (20m) but didn’t show themselves.
Dive 28: Shaab Sharm
Time: 10.51
Water temp: 24C
Viz: 15m
Depth: 30,1 meters
Dive time: 51 minutes
After breakfast we enjoy some time in the sun. We stay here for the 2nd dive. Again in the sun it’s nice and warm, one deck down it’s cold. Next dive the sun is stronger and the visibility much better. We jump from the boat en swim to the plateau and back. A moray eel, a long nose hawk fish in a gorgonian and a stingray. The water is chilly at 24 degrees.
After an abundant lunch of pizza, fries, KFC and salad we sail for 2 hours. Big waves. In the wind it’s chilly even though sun is shining and there are no clouds. Big waves. Oops, I’m coming up with a sore throat.
Dive 28: Shaab Marsa Alam
Time: 15.30
Water temp: 24C
Viz: 12m
Depth: 19 meters
Dive time: 50 minutes
We arrive late at Shaab Marsa Alam. There are 2 day boats aka cockroaches. When I jump in, I understand why the guides and crew call them that. Rubbish everywhere from cans, cups, napkins, plastic, etc. I had jokingly told Talaat that 30 minutes would be enough for this dive and it certainly would have been. The columns are dull, the visibility and light poor. The wreck is a sad pile of rubbish. A toilet, a sink, wood, electricity cables. Pollution of the sea. Horrible. But we do see schools of yellow fish and lots of fusilier fish. Then we go through 2 tunnels and I see the ropes of the boat. Full throttle out of here. Good thing that Gerard wasn’t diving. It would have made him furious. I would have liked to have skipped this one too!
We see the sun set behind the mountai
ns. They also go night diving here, but nobody is in a big hurry. They prefer to wait fifteen minutes or longer. Jalla jalla!
Monday 31st of December 2018
Highlights of the day:
Elphinstone (turtle)
Abu Dabbab 3 (baby eagle ray, coral formations)
Shaab Shuna (turtle, unicorn fish)
We are up when they raise the anchor. It takes a long time for the other guests to appear on stage. The boat rocks nicely towards Elphinstone. There are already 2 liveaboards.
Dive 30: Elphinstone Northern Plateau
Time: 7.05
Depth: 34,3 meters
Dive time: 35 minutes
We can choose south (jump of the boat) or north (by zodiac). We’re anchored above the southern point but the plateau here is much smaller so most guests opt for north. 7 guests are not diving at all, but Gerard is. We are only 4 in the zodiac and now it is a relaxed ride. All of a sudden zodiacs are coming from everywhere. Also big ones arrive from the coast. But in the end we are in the water first and have the plateau to ourselves for 10 minutes. Visibility is jerky. We descend to 34m and swim around the tip. On the plateau a female Humphead wrasse. In blue only some huge barracudas. When the next mob arrives, Gerard and I leave towards the wall. We see wisps of slime. Where is he, where is he? Follow the slime that is getting more and more and there is an enormous turtle sitting against the wall. He is pulling whole pieces of coral tree loose. Awesome. Only us as first row spectators. The animal continues to eat deliciously. When Talaat and the rest of the group arrive, all of us continue reef right shoulder. We swim at 10 to 5m deep where light is at its best. After half an hour we let the zodiac pick us up. Talaat returns not much later. He is very ill.
First we sail to Abu Dabbab. When we’re moored the bell rings for breakfast. Fruit salad seems to be especially popular this morning.
Dive 31: Abu Dabbab 3
Time: 10.56
Water temp: 24C
Depth: 16,1 meters
Dive time: 75 minutes
Essam will guide Abu Dabbab 3. He’s less sick as Talaat. We take the zodiac to the wreck but that doesn’t interest us. As soon as we roll in, we can see the baby eagle ray. It is so cute! We find an anemone with Nemo’s but not the red one. Either Essam can’t find it or he just doesn’t feel like it. We go round all the way. Despite the sun, visibility is poor but the coral formations here are phenomenal. This is a top dive site. Essam points to a sea cucumber. We used to see so many, that it was nothing special. Now this one is the first we see, so rare. I spot a lovely slug but Gerard is not around to take a picture. The other divers are no help either as one lost her camera, one has an expensive camera but doesn’t know how to work it and a third ends up taking a hazy picture. We swim all the way back to the boat, reef right shoulder. Formations from bottom to waterline, huge. There are so many white & black fish (bicolor pullers) on a certain stretch I have never seen together. They all swim out of the coral and shoot back at the slightest threat. I stay high for the best light. There are also many orange spine unicorn fish here. Another anemone with 2 Nemo’s. Lots of small hard corals with bluegreen pullers. Very nice, long dive. 75 minutes. Last time with Talaat it was 88 minutes (see Trip Report 22-29 November 2018 Daedalus, Rocky & Zabargad). It’s not too bad with the cold, but then again this is the second dive I’ve started wearing my hood.
Lunch and off to Shaab Shuna for the 3rd dive.
Dive 32: Shaab Shuna
Time: 14.57
Water temp: 23/24C
Depth: 25,1 meters
Dive time: 59 minutes
We take the zodiac to the other side of Shaab Shuna where we have not yet been. On the way there, from the zodiac, I already see plastic floating everywhere. Underwater visibility is lousy, lots of sediment. We swim a bit along the reef. Nothing special. Then cross over a stretch of sand. There is a remora which I avoid like the plague. Reef again. I’m just watching a batfish when a Boeing 747 comes flying over from behind: an enormous turtle. It bends 5 meters further and dives into a hole in the wall. He fits right in with its 2 remoras. He turns around again because Essam shines on him with a lamp while this is not necessary at all. Anyone can see him. We let the animal lie down and swim on. In the meantime I’m filling my BCD with plastic and fishing line. We see different stingrays, 3 more batfish, a porcupine fish and more plastic. We have to swim hard against the current. Another stretch of sand and then sea grass. Visibility is still very poor but we do see a long horn box fish swimming. I didn’t know they swim in the Red Sea. The rest of the dive I collect more plastic and also during the deco stop I swim from plastic bag to plastic bag. Back on the boat I empty my pockets. The trash can is full immediately. It’s sad, deeply sad.
Next stop Port Ghalib. We have to drop of Rudi who’s face became all fat. Under water blood was running from his nose. He had been hit by an elbow of an inattentive diver who was taking off his wetsuit. But first an abundant dinner with warm and cold dishes. After dinner Rudi leaves for the hospital in Hurghada and we leave for the Brother Islands. Seems they’re open. The crossing will take about 7 hours. Nobody is interested in celebrating New Year’s Eve with pie and champagne. So we have a piece of pie after dinner. When German Hardrock music is cranked up we flee to our room.
Tuesday 1st of January 2019
Highlight of the day: 
Sun rise and sun down
Little & Big Brother Island
Longimanus
Barracudas
Hard and soft corals
Current
This is the first time we spent New Year’s Eve in bed sleeping. Well we do briefly wake up at 0.30. The boat is dead quiet and doesn’t move. We’re anchored at Little Brother.
We rise at 4.45. No wind and the sea is pancake flat. In the distance we spot 9 large cargo vessels. At Big Brother there is 1 boat. We’re the only ones at Little Brother. How unique to start a new year. Today the Brothers Islands are officially open. The army left yesterday. The Islands were closed from 7 to 31 December 2018 following a series of injuries to divers resulting from interactions with oceanic whitetip sharks. There have been a total of four biting incidents recorded – one in June and three in November. The most serious incident was recorded at the beginning of November. Video footage can be found on internet, We watched it prior to this trip. It did change our attitude towards Longimanus. Even at the beginning of this trip we were not sure if we could go diving at the Brothers at all. We heard it was ok yesterday while in Port Ghalib, but communication is poor. At the time of writing I see on internet (Divemagazine.co.uk) that a decree, issued by the Red Sea Governor and dated 1 January 2019, was to ‘extend the closure of Brothers island for diving activities and safari trips until 15 March 2019’. Well that news didn’t travel all the way out to the Brothers. Must have been a flaw in cell phone reception. 
And guess what, Longimanus is already swimming next to the boat. Happy happy, joy joy!. They have not been cleared preventively. There is also a huge barracuda swimming. The current is strong. Before the sun rises, the whole sky turns totally red. This is reflected in the smooth water. It’s a magical sight. The sun rises at 6.27 am. Briefing.
Dive 33: Little Brother
Time: 6.58
Viz: 10-15m
Depth: 32,6 meters
Dive time: 56 minutes
We take the zodiac to the northern point. The current is strong. Current and Longimanus, I find it pretty exciting. When we roll and the bubbles are gone, we see 2 Longimani coming straight at us full force. Oh, they were waiting for us! Finally visitors again. Didn’t see any divers for a month. Must have been boring. Below the other divers form a wall that would not have been out of place on the soccer field in front of the goal, but we still hang in the blue and Talaat is signaling us to get closer to the reef. Yes, the shark attacks made the dive guides nervous. The reef looms behind him. Okay, reef right shoulder. We’re going fast. Lots of barracudas. The wall is dark. I’m mostly busy checking if Longimanus is swimming above us and he does that regularly. We get to the southern point and here the current is less. Gerard is about to go to the zodiac with the first group, the SMB is up, when Longimanus comes back! They have to wait until he is out of sight. We only have one zodiac as the other one has a leak and is hanging sadly behind the boat.
Breakfast.
We decide to make the next 2 dives at Big Brother. Longimanus is again hanging next to the boat and swims next to the anchor rope, his fin above water. No wind, smooth sea and sun. It is wonderfully warm on the 1st day of the year. We slowly sail to Big Brother. The zodiac goes first. Liveaboard he Blue lies at the southern tip. We’re going to the northern tip. It’s low tide. You can see part of the reef around Big Brother. The water is so smooth that the current is clearly visible both to the left and right of the split.
Dive 34: Big Brother
Time: 11.01
Water temp: 24C
Depth: 36,7 meters
Dive time: 53 minutes
Gerard does not go on the 2nd dive. So I end up chasing Talaat, I’m trying to keep up. We now go past the northern tip, reef left shoulder along the pier. The current is strong and we’re flying. Barracudas, about 5 tunas shoot under me, a school of black fish, a Humphead wrasse and a lot of cornet fish. I also spot several Nemo’s. Large soft coral trees on the wall. We arrive at the southern tip and descend slightly. We have a good view of the 2 hills and the path in between but do not go there. We swim around the corner until we hit current again. In the meantime, there are 2 Longimani swimming above us and they circle each other. I stay between Talaat and the reef. He keeps his pin ready. From the other boat we meet someone at our height. Also with a pin in hand. The dive guides have a sword fight with their pins. The Longimani make everybody nervous where nobody was really bothered by their presence before. Me too. The first time a saw Longimanus at the Brothers in May 2018 I was so happy and excited. It came up close to 50 cm, but I felt no fear at all. The video footage is amazing (see Trip Report Amelia 5-12 May 2018 Brothers, Daedalus, Elphinstone).
Both zodiacs are running again but one takes passengers only and one gear. When we arrive at the big boat it is cleaned from top to bottom and it stinks of bleach. Everything runs into the sea.
After lunch we sit upstairs. There is still no wind. However, veil clouds and when the sun is gone, it is chilly and a bath towel provides a solution. Tea with biscuits and then a 2.30 pm briefing.
Dive 35: Big Brother
Time: 14.56
Viz: 10-15m
Depth: 31,1 meters
Dive time: 57 minutes
Plan A and plan B are not entirely clear, Oder, oder, oder. (Dive briefings on this tour are given in German to accommodate the German speaking guests). We’ll follow Talaat so we’ll be fine. We’ll jump on the Numidia because the current is a bit less. Then plan to immediately find cover in the lee and swim reef left shoulder again. We roll, swim down like crazy and hide behind the wreck. Lots of current down here! Talaat calls us, he’s lost something. Later it turns out he lost a diver. So change of plans. We stick together and follow plan C, reef right shoulder. We end up in a tremendous current. I see bubbles spinning everywhere. That happened in May 2018 too. When I exhale, my bubbles hit me in the face. That’s so weird. I look at the fish. Heads up, towards the surface. Oops, that’s not good, down current!!!. So kick it. Then we are thrown around a reef corner again. We suddenly fly very fast. It’s a rollercoaster and Gerard loves it. A whole school of doctor fish passes below us. A huge school of fusilier fish between us. Longimanus above, barracudas too. Then it calms down. Beautiful hard coral on the wall and clouds of fairy basslets/Sea Goldies. We make it to the southern tip, see gigantic gorgonians below us. Time to shot the SMB. The zodiac was right behind us.
The captain of the Blue and the dive guides visited us. Talaat told them what we saw at Daedalus and they went crazy. They had nothing. They had already arrived at the Brothers yesterday. They were lucky because the Coast Guard had just left the day before. But the current was even more intense yesterday and they saw nothing. Well, they did see Longimanus while they were hanging from the rope in the current and the guests did not like that very much.
The setting sun is fantastic. It was a beautiful January 1st.
Wednesday 2nd of January 2019
Highlight of the day:
Small Giftun Island Police Station
Gota Abu Ramada
Tonight I wake up at 0.30 and feel like the cold is finally getting to me too. Wonder if those last dives are going to work. The boat is completely silent again. No engines. No rocking. It’s cold. We get up again at 4.45 am. The Blue is behind us and another boat is in front of us. Heavy cloud cover. Little wind but icy cold.
Dive 36: Small Giftun Island Police Station
Time: 7.00
Depth: 28,3 meters
Dive time: 45 minutes
We are taken to the same spot with the zodiac. My octopus has died. I try it in the water but only get a sip of salt water. Ok dive with only one regulator. Essam and everyone knows about it so I’ll be fine. My ear doesn’t really feel like diving. I’m taking it easy. We first go to the wall with the gorgonians at 30m. I hang on 25m. There is a porcupine fish in the gorgonian. We go across the plateau to the wall. On the plateau, Essam finds a beautiful dotted flatworm. Moray eel same place. Nemo’s. The wall is very beautiful but the sunlight is missing so is all color. Every once and a while schools of fish. 10 yellow butterfly fish together. A mega scorpion fish, close to the head of lettuce, so it will probably be the same fish. And we also encounter the ugly giant puffer. We have been swimming for 40 minutes now and I am very, very cold. Fortunately, on board Gerard takes care of my dive gear and I can run to a hot shower.
Breakfast and on to Gota Abu Ramada aka Aquarium. One boat after another arrives. Around us there are as many as 7. Ahead there are 40 boats. Time to pay for reef tax, visa and beer. I was assigned head of the tip envelopes for the crew and the guides. I kind of enjoy knocking money out of everyone’s pocket. No one escapes even if they say they have no money (anymore). Tip is 50 euro per person per week for crew and again for the guides. At the ceremony and photo session I get to hand over the thick envelopes. Lots of happy faces.
Dive 37: Gota Abu Ramada aka Aquarium
Time: 11.45
Depth: 12,5 meters
Dive time: 66 minutes
The last dive is guided by Talaat. For such a busy dive site, it is quite a nice dive. I will miss this sooo much. From Friday it’s back to work at the office. We get options again. I choose the zodiac and swim back to the boat. Better than from boat than 20 minutes out and 20 minutes back to boat. We are dropped at 2 huge columns. Here Talaat finds a moray eel and a very nice striped slug. We swim quietly over a coral garden, 2 Picasso triggerfish fighting, several Nemo’s, a very large barracuda. Above a large school of fusilier fish hunted by a big fish. Then we slowly start to encounter divers. A few have seen a large Napoleon and go crazy. More Nemo’s and a small gray moray eel swimming with 2 other fish by its side. A large school of yellow goatfish. Nice last dive but cold. A hot shower is unfortunately not possible.
Next on the program is the baptism of Ueli by Poseidon. This is Ueli’s first liveaboard trip. Philip is approached for playing Poseidon complete with crown and make-up. Ueli must wear his fins and mask and take the oath while Michel smashes an raw egg on his head. Poseidon recites a poem and they jump into the water together. Sounds dull but turned out to be pretty hilarious.
Lunch. Next we sail to Hurghada and moor at the same place. The sun appears for a while and that is nice and makes the dive gear dry quicker. There is still hardly any wind. We exchange some files. Rudi comes back to the boat. His face looks better. There’s a big fire in town. On the dock, a lady from a day boat drops her phone into the water and one of our crew members retrieves it. They are so helpful.
Thursday 3rd of January 2019
The boat is completely taken apart. Everything will be painted and upholstered over the next few months. The dive guides get time off and I can tell they’re looking forward to spending time with their family. Talaat’s little girls show up at the boat to welcome their father.
We’re taken to Hurghada airport and what a mess it is there. Lines, lines, lines. They had some computer crash and communication is next to none. We have no idea which is our counter. Getting in line is no problem, as long as you know it is the right line! And is the plane delayed?. It better be because the line at the security check is also gigantic. On top of it all we’re harassed big time by an Egyptian custom official. He claims some interesting stuff from our luggage (probably to go right into his own pocket) and even makes trouble about bringing our house keys onto the plane. He actually wants us to leave our house key behind because it would be to sharp!!! This is the last time I’ve ever flown Hurghada, what a shit hole.
The flight to Germany is ok. Luggage takes very long to make it to the luggage carousel and then we have a 2 hour drive ahead of us back to Breda, Holland.
It’s been a wonderful trip with fantastic sightings. In total 42 dives were offered of which 5 night dives.